Mohammed and the Mountain

Somebody else's perfect picture of Mt. Kenya

Mount Kenya is the highest mountain in Kenya and the second highest in Africa (Kilimanjaro).  Its highest peak is ~ 17,000 feet.  It was thought to be formed first as a volcano 3 million years ago during the opening of the East African rift.  Then it became covered over by an ice cap - and today it still has 11 glaciers (slowly thought to be melting) that account for its ragged shape.  Mount Kenya is located in central Kenya - right on the equator.

But this is not really about Mt. Kenya.  It's about my journey to see it.

I was invited to spend a weekend at Mt. Kenya by Esther, one of my interns from last year.  She is from the area and was happy to show me around the area. 

Our weekend began at cool and dark 4am - the plan was to leave at that time because Mt. Kenya is so far from Tenwek and we were traveling the whole way by matatu. (see Blog on Matatus) But apparently, the driver really meant 4 am Kenyan Standard Time, and so our ride picked us up a little after 5am. 

We travelled from Tenwek to Nairobi on one matatu, grabbed some food and then caught another matatu to Nyanuki.  Total time was about 8 hours and cost was $9.29.  We began walking around the town trying to find a decent looking hotel.  It became quickly evident that I was very likely the only mzungu there and I was attracting a lot of stares and comments.  "Look at the white lady!" one man called to his child.

We finally found a secure looking hotel, The Comfort Inn - which proudly boasted self-contained rooms (includes a toilet and shower).  It was pretty nice - hot water, clean, comfy bed and cable TV (so I could catch up on my Latin soap operas!).  It also had an attached restaurant where we where able to enjoy breakfast and dinner.  The hotel hostess was able to help us find a guide to explore Mt. Kenya on Saurday.  His name was Mohammed and he has been hosting tours and climbs in the area for 16 years!  He offered to drop us off at the Mt Kenya park entrance and we could walk the 10 miles to the base camp (at 10,000 feet) - I voted a loud "hapana" on that one.  Or we could pay him and his partner to take us on motorbikes. 

Now if there is any more dreaded form of transportation in Kenya that the matatu.....its the piki piki or motorbike.  People are always coming in to the emergency department after motor bike accidents.  But I came to explore Mt. Kenya...so we struck an agreement.

May is rainy season in the central province of Kenya where Mt. Kenya is located.  The storm clouds gather predictably every day at about 11 am and the rain continues the rest of the day.  We met Mohammed at 730 am to ensure that we would reach base camp in time to get a good picture of the mountain.

It was awesome zipping along the highway on the motor bikes to the Park.  The sky was perfectly clear and the air was crisp.  In the distance, the ragged peaks of Mt. Kenya were clearly visible against the blue sky, the bright white snow caps shining.  After 30-40 minutes, we turned off the tarmack onto a gravel/dirt road that would lead us into the park. 

Zebra crossing the road near the Park entrance

Because of the rainy season, the road was soft and muddy in spots......and at times the motorbikes were having a hard time carrying two passengers each up the hills towards Mt. Kenya.  So, at times we would have to get off and walk a bit.  Slowly though we were working our way towards the base camp.

Clouds moving towards the peaks of Mt. Kenya

Tall trees and lovely green along the way...

Passing through the Park entrance, we continued working our upwards.  We passed over the point of the Equator - separating the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.  I chatted with Mohammed and enjoyed the scenery despite the tough time the bikes were having with the roads.

Eventually, we started going so steeply up hill that the bikes were having more and more of a hard time carrying us.  The loud rumble of a truck behind us forced us off the road....appartently the drivers were friends of Mohammed's and they invited us to ride along to base camp with them.  So, into the truck we went!

You may be thinking that this all seems very random or poorly planned.  It was.  But sometimes spontaneous trips are the best.  And living on the mission field is often like this - even if you do plan it well!  Oftentimes....things are not what you expected - but it doesn't mean you can't enjoy the journey!

Bouncing along in our convoy, I looked out at the road ahead.  The truck appeared to be smoking!

Sure enough - it was over heating.  So out of the truck we climbed and back on our motor bikes.

Finally, after some walking and sliding around.... we made it to 10,000 feet!  I could definitely tell the difference in altitude (versus Tenwek).  Even a small amount of walking made me huff and puff.  And the temperature seemed to be dropping by the minute!

Esther and I at base camp!

Where IS the mountain?!

Pretend you see a mountain behind me....

Basking in the joy of finally having made it to the base camp - I looked around.  Where did the mountain go?  During our arduous journey, the rain clouds had moved in and completely covered it.  I could only laugh!  I can still that  perfect picture of the mountain that I had been staring out for that entire ride along the tarmack road in the morning......never thinking that would be my only perfect picture moment!  That I would ascend to my destination and find the mountain hidden!  I couldn't be too upset though....the day had been too fun....bopping on and off the bikes...into a huge truck....crossing the equator....laughter and good conversation - I even found some awesome bargains at a little duka near the Park entrance!

The flora of Mt. Kenya

Our guide Mohammed on the right.